Day 9 – We made it to Edinburgh!

35 miles today, 347 miles so far and very mixed weather

The B&B in Kirkcaldy was a beautiful old manse house and one of the best of the whole trip, even if Kirkcaldy itself isn't the most attractive place.

We put on our waterproofs and headed off into the rain at about 9:30 for our last day’s cycling. The first hour or so was pretty slow going as we fought our way up hills and along wet roads. Our brakes squealed or made alarming grinding noises from all the wet and mud.

Soon we turn onto yet more cycle routes running along by the sea. However, a lot of the route also ran through forest and we seemed to be climbing up and down numerous short sharp slippery slopes. Our mountain biker brethren would probably love it, but for us it was tiring and frustratingly slow.

By 11am the rain stops and the sun breaks through. A short way after Burntisland we leave the forest track and immediately arrive at a golden open beach where we find the cyclist oasis: a tea shop. We enjoy a ice cream sitting on the beach in glorious sunshine. In fact we linger there for an hour watching the waves and the odd fishing boat.

Reluctantly we drag ourselves away from the beach and start turning the pedals again, heading for the Forth Bridge. Soon we start to see several heavily laden touring cyclists going in the other direction, this I think being part of one of the routes from Lands End to John O Groats.

We stop in a small market town for a quick bite to eat and get caught in another heavy downpour. Straight onto the Forth Bridge with lorries hammering past and throwing up spray from the earlier rain. Long bridge and seemed to take an age to get to the other side.

The last 10 miles into a Edinburgh was along dedicated cycle tracks often through woodlands And it felt as if we were still in the country. Arriving it Edinburgh it was very busy but we found our hotel without incident. 20 minutes after we checked in the heavens opened with thunder and lighting and hailstones bouncing of the pavement – how lucky were we!?

So we made it and Thomas did amazingly well. A whole day off tomorrow in Edinburgh and no cycling!

Day 8 - Woodland wonderland

47 miles today, 312 miles so far and a harder, hillier day

We slept well at the Premier Inn and enjoyed a hearty breakfast.

Started the day cycling 2 miles across the Tay Bridge under a clear blue sky.
Turned left off the bridge and followed the coast along yet more great dedicated cycle tracks. They've really done a great job for the cyclists and walkers in this part of the world.

5 miles on and still following the coast we turn into the most amazing forest. For 5-6 miles we cycle along beautiful forest tracks and only see one runner the whole time. Deep in the heart of the forest is an old stone ice house where they used to store salmon caught in the sea before refrigeration.

We're sad when we leave the forest and are soon back on quiet country lanes. The route becomes a lot hillier and we are constantly climbing up and then rushing down hills. Tom has become a really strong cyclist and just keeps on attacking the hills all day without complaining of being tired.

Lunchtime we stop at a tea shop in one of the small villages and enjoy a tasty lunch. We have a good chat with the owner who is really interested in our cycle trip. Everyone is so friendly in this part of the world.

We keep on going with the sun still shining and route1 comes to a road that is closed to cars but still open to cyclists. We cycle carefully along a road, half of which has completely collapsed into the gulley below. At the top of the lane is a house hanging over the edge of the gulley on which the foundations had disappeared. Must have been caused by the heavy floods at the start of the year.

By 4 pm we arrive in Kirkcaldy (pronounced kirkcody), a busy town by the sea and find our a B&B straightaway, completing our second longest day's mileage.

Day 7 – Coastal paths galore

37 miles today, 265 miles so far and a great day cycling by the sea

Really enjoyed the high quality B&B, including the breakfast and I think Montrose is a very pleasant, seaside town.

Woke up to clear blue skies and a drop in the strength of the wind and we set of at 9:30am.
For once we weren't immediately climbing steep hills and the route started along more endless rolling fields of wheat, with the sun glistening of the blue sea on our left. For the 15 miles to Arbroath we are on deserted country lanes that seem to go forever. We stop to watch a massive combine harvester cutting the wheat: Tom would love to drive one of these monsters!

Arbroath is a name I've heard read out on the football results but had no real idea of where it is or what it is like. In fact it's a pleasant market town with a beach. We stop at a tea shop for refreshments.

Leaving Arbroath we pick up the Route 1 coastal path. It runs along a perfect car free, gravel surface. Amazingly this cycle track runs continuously for 20 miles all the way to Dundee, most of it just feet from the beach and the crashing waves. There are miles of golden beaches along the route and we stop twice to rest and sit on the beach enjoying the sunshine. Well done whoever built this outstanding cycle route! One part runs part an MOD firing range dotted with warning red flags and signs and we hear gunfire in the distance as we pass.

Even entering Dundee we still run along all the way along the river estuary and through the docks. We are staying at the Premier Inn right next to the river and the Discovery Point with Captain Scott’s ship Discovery.

We find an excellent Italian restaurant and after dinner enjoy  a walk around Dundee City centre and along the river.

Day 6 - Best day so far

32 miles today, 228 miles so far and cycling by the sea

B&B wasn't the best but the landlady was extremely friendly and helpful, even making us complimentary rolls for lunch. I slept like a log so woke up feeling refreshed. Clear blue skies, no rain but very windy.

Less than 30 miles today, so we had a leisurely start. A 2 mile steep climb out of Stonehaven up past Dunnotar castle got the heart pumping and warmed us up. We turned onto our old friend cycle route 1 and quiet, car free lanes passing through amazing countryside. The blue sea was constantly on our left and the wing behind us or over our right shoulder, so we really enjoyed the cycling. We are passing through fields full of wheat or highland cattle and everywhere combine harvesters or bailers are busy bringing in the harvest.

After 10 miles, route 1 gives us a choice of the "on road" or "off road" routes and we have no hesitation in opting for the latter. For the next 7-8 miles we are travelling on remote, rough cycle tracks right next to the sea and through the most beautiful scenery. We stopped to consume our rolls and sit in the sunshine by the sea - bliss!

Sadly the coastal track comes to an end and route 1 takes us onto a busy A road for a while. Why do some drivers disengage their brains when they get behind the wheel: cars missing our elbows by inches as they rocket past at 70 mph on a single lane road, the massive farm vehicle going so fast the turbulence in his wake nearly knocks of our bikes and best of all the white van driver coming the other way who overtakes at high speed with no regard for the cyclists on the other side of the road!!!

With much relief we turn back onto car free lanes and soon have the most amazing view across the wheat fields to the empty golden beach at St Cyrus. The cycle track turns onto another disused railway line (so many in this part of the world) and we cycle across a viaduct over a wide fast flowing river. We watch the fly fishermen on the river and enjoyed the view for a while.

We stayed on the cycle track which was fantastic and ran right into the centre of Montrose. Because we were early, we cycled to the beach and enjoyed a well earned ice cream. Montrose looks like a very pleasant town.

In the evening we have an enjoyable curry and walk round Montrose.

Day 5 - A mixed day

 27 miles today, 196 miles in total and sunshine, wind and rain

We enjoyed our night at Skeen House in Aberdeen. Weather dry but windy, checked the bikes over and set off........in the wrong direction. Dad's not awake this morning and we head 2 miles away from our planned route, up and down the hilly streets of Aberdeen.

Realise my mistake, soon we're back on track and reach the Deeside cycle route. Amazing cycle track that runs along the old Deeside railway line for miles from Aberdeen City centre. We make very fast progress along the flat cycle track and are soon out on beautiful country lanes. Strong gusts of wind make the cycling a bit nerve wracking at times.

After quite a good run we arrive in Stonehaven, where we are staying tonight, at about 1:30 and have lunch in a very pleasant cafe. Just outside Stonehaven is the famous Dunnotar Castle and we cycle the steep 2 miles hill up to the castle. Just as we arrive heavy rain showers start. The castle is an amazing sight perched on a very high hill and can only be reached by climbing down steep steps into a deep moat and then back up more steps to the castle. Locking the bikes to a fence we climb down and then up to the castle, hoping the bikes will still be there when we return.

The castle is fascinating with numerous stairways into dark, damp rooms. How did people live here? Must have been a nightmare in winter. The rain and wind keeps on and we are soon soaked. Heading back down the steep hill into Stonehaven is fun, hardly able to see anything due to the heavy sideways rain.

As we arrive at the B&B the rain stops and the sun comes out! I am sure our landlady was delighted to meet the two drowned rats who we're staying with her that night.

A good meal in a local Chinese restaurant, walk round the harbour and along the beach and we were ready for bed.

Day 4 - Less hills, more wind

45 miles today, 169 miles so far and strong winds

Set off from the very good B&B just after 9am. Weather cloudy but dry, so looking good, although the legs are feeling a bit heavy.

First few miles went well. However, as soon as we got out into open country the strong winds started. Fighting headwinds while climbing constant hills soon becomes tiring. Tom was tired from the previous day and soon started to complain about battling the wind. Had to keep waiting for him a lot and encourage him along.

7-8 miles along we stop to have a look at one if the many wind turbines in the area. Walking right up to the base of one is like approaching an alien structure (War of the Worlds springs to mind). They are enormous, very eerie and make a strange wiring noise as they turn. How on earth do they build them in a field in the middle of nowhere?

We reach the coast again and the wind becomes even stronger and we battle the headwinds. Slowly we turn south and the wind now comes at us side on - easier to cycle but now I risk being blow over as the wind gusts hit me from the side. 15 miles along we diverted to a ruined castle. Bumping along rough muddy tracks we arrived at the ruined tower of a castle, absolutely in the middle of nowhere. Well over 30 feet high and constructed of very large stones, it must have taken an age to haul the stones here and build it. Why is it here - some kind of watch tower? However, we have a pleasant break overlooking the dramatic coastline.

We press on and after a while the wind eases and the cycling becomes more enjoyable. Finally finding a small local shop, we purchase a few snacks and have a quick lunch. Heavy rain showers start while we're eating and continue off and on as we approach Aberdeen. Bumping our way along cobble streets we soon find the very welcome hotel.

Time for a shower, dinner and a walk around Aberdeen.

Day 3 - Mountain Goats

32 miles today, 124 miles so far and a lot of hills

Set of just after 9am, our earliest start so far. 38 miles only today, clear skies and no rain, so things were looking good. How wrong can you be....

No sooner did we cross the bridge heading out of Banff and the road turned upwards and we started to climb...and climb...and climb.... 8 miles of almost steady climbing and I was soon regretting having the full English breakfast!

10 miles along and Tom decides he needs the toilet. No problem, we'll just make a small detour into Gordonstown. Only Gordonstown is a fishing village at the bottom of a what seems like a mountain! Heading down 20% slopes which seem to go on forever with fully loaded panniers and me on the bike was a nerve wracking experience. I'm pulling the brake levers so hard my hands are in agony and I still can't slow the bike enough! Helpful thoughts go through my head... "Hope I tightened those new brake cables properly."

We eventually reach the bottom find the toilet and then have to push the bikes up the mountain. Exhausted we reach our route again - nearly an hour later for a 2 mile detour. On we go and the hills keep coming. More 20% slopes and white knuckle braking! Which bright spark planned this route...

18 miles, we've both had enough and start checking the route for short cuts. Fortunately, we can cut across country, miss that scenic coast road that looked so attractive when I planned the route and cut out 7-8 miles. I let Tom make the decision - he must have thought about it for at least a millisecond before he picking the shortcut.

Along the way we approach what appears to be an alien space ship landed in a nearby field. On closer inspection it turns out to be an unmanned radar station.

Still hilly but making progress we decide to stop for a brief lunch. Soon after we reach our destination Old Deer. A really small village it doesn't take us long to find our B&B. Great B&B and a very helpful, friendly owner. Nearest place to eat is a hotel 15 minutes walked along the disused railway line and across the fields. The meal and the service was first class.

Time for bed and let's see what adventures tomorrow has in store.

Day 2 - Amazing scenic route to Banff

41 miles today, 92 miles so far and a great days cycling

After a good night's (Thomas slept like a log & had to be prised out of bed) and a great breakfast at the B&B, we donned our waterproofs and headed out into the pouring rain.

A short distance outside Elgin and we were once again on cycle route 1 rolling along quiet beautiful country lanes. Legs a bit heavy after yesterday, but soon the rain eases off and we really started to enjoy the day. All around us are miles of rolling hills of farm land or forest and the sea constantly on our left. Some very large houses, tucked in amongst the trees, many apparently owned by guys earning good money working on the oil rigs.

Now route 1 starts to run along old disused railway lines. Great for cycling - a good surface and very flat! We soon come to a large iron railway bridge over the river Spey. The bridge has clearly seen better days and we ease our way carefully across, avoiding the holes in the bridge. There has obviously been a massive amount of rain in the area recently, with the Spey having burst it's banks, water covering the surrounding fields and the river a torrent of angry brown water. Sand bags piled outside many if the village houses tells the same story all along the route. Just as well we weren't here last week.

The rain starts again as we are struggling along a particularly rough stone and mud covered cycle track heading towards Portnockie. Arriving in the village and looking forward to a break we ask a local for the nearest tea shop. Extremely friendly and helpful he spent the next 10 minutes telling us that the village tea shop closed last year and that we should carry on 2 miles along the old railway line to Cullen where there was a beautiful beach, great tea shop and the best ice cream in North Scotland. He was spot on. The run along the railway line and past the golden beach was amazing. At a busy tea shop we had the largest triple layered croque-monsieur I have every seen! And of course we had to sample the ice cream which was indeed amazing.

By now the rain had stopped again and the sun came out. The last 15 miles was great, mainly on dedicated cycle tracks, with the last 5 miles running right along the sea and beach into Banff.
After a hot shower, washing the cycle clothing, fish & chips in the village went down a treat.

Day 1 - Made it to Elgin

51 miles 7 hours cycling to Elgin and Thomas tried to kill me

Arrived in Inverness on time, but tired after a terrible nights sleep on our moving beds. Thomas has now completed changed his opinion of sleeper trains from something exciting to "I never want to go on a sleeper train again!"

Gears on my bike were not running very well (that'll teach me to fit new cables the weekend before we are due to set off). Local shop Highland Bikes were very helpful and indexed the gears on both bikes at the extortionate price of £2 towards their tea kitty! Amazing service!

 

After a full English breakfast at the aptly named Feeding Station, we drag ourselves up the hill out of Inverness onto to cycle route 1.


Soon after we are rolling along quiet cycle tracks through parks and beautiful woodlands. Further on the route follows some amazing coast roads. We stopped to visit the fascinating Fort George, a massive fort built by the English to subdue the Scots after the battle of Culloden.

Leaving Fort George, Thomas finds he's left his cycle gloves 2 miles back when we stopped for a break - just what we needed, an extra 4 miles added to the route to fetch the gloves!

The rest of the route ran along route 1 through beautiful rolling countryside with fields full of corn or cattle. We had the roads virtually to ourselves with no traffic and such a contrast with the busy south of England.

About 10 miles from out destination Elgin Thomas loses control of his bike, crashes into me and I'm knocked off and we both end up in a tangled heap of bikes and limbs on the roadside. Slowly extracting ourselves and the bikes, we find we have only suffered minor cuts and bruises. The handle bars on my bike are twisted round at an odd angle and one of the brake blocks on Thomas' jammed onto the wheel. Both were quickly put right and two shaken, but relieved cyclists set off again. Last time I cycle alongside Thomas - going to stay well away from him in future!

After getting soaked in a heavy shower, we limp slowly into Elgin, tired and wet.
The B&B was really great and after a hearty meal at a nearby Italian restaurant we fell into bed and slept like babies.

Made the sleeper train

So we made the sleeper train without any dramas. Cycling across London not as bad as I thought and the roads were pretty quiet at 7:30pm. Mind you, my bike weights a tonne with the fully loaded panniers on board - crawled up a couple of large hills on the way to Gerrards Cross station that normally are no trouble. I could be facing the embarrassment of Thomas leaving me behind now he's bigger and stronger! Mind you I've given him a rucksack to carry and put the tools and spares in it to try and slow him down a bit.

Euston station was packed and after a short wait the sleeper train arrives early, we load the bikes into the special bike van and are shown our cabins. Thomas was expected 5 star luxury and was bitterly disappointed with the cramped bunk beds. There's certainly been no improvement since I used the sleeper 4 years ago and it was pretty dire then!

So we'll try and get a few hours sleep on our moving bunk beds as the train rattles it way northwards and we then wake up in Inverness tomorrow morning ready for the 50 miles to Elgin.

What's it all about...

Following a very enjoyable trip two years ago, my son Thomas and I plan to cycle the Coast & Castle northern route over 9 days starting today! The trip is about 360 miles, will start in Inverness and finish in Edinburgh. Thomas is now 13 years old and although he is a very good cyclist, this will be his longest trip to date. Some of my best childhood memories are of the cycling holidays I spent with my father, so I really hope Thomas will enjoy our trip together.

I started the preparations about 4 weeks ago, the route has been planned, the B&Bs booked, bikes serviced and all the gear organised. Let's hope I haven't forgotten anything!

We will average 40-45 miles a day and plan to do lots of sight seeing along the way, including Dunnattor Castle.
We will spend an extra day in Edinburgh (one of my favourite cities) at the end of the trip to do some sight seeing.

Tonight we cycle to Gerrards Cross station, into London and cycle from Marylebone to Euston to catch the 9:15pm sleeper train. Unfortunately, the skies are pretty black and looks like we're going to get wet from the start!

So this is the story of our trip.....

Gavin & Thomas